North
Shore Surf Tips
North
Shore surf tips
By Moana Barrow
LeonardBarrow@cs.com
The North Shore has been called the Mecca of surfing.
Imagine crisp clean
lines of double overhead waves manicured by off-shore winds. You paddle into the
wave of your life and pull into a stand up tube. Time mysteriously seems to slow
down and your vision intensifies.
Deep
blues and greens appear and you marvel at the sparkle of the crystal water that
encases you and then then bang! you get spit out into reality.
You kickout
and find yourself flooded with adrenaline and a feeling of intense happiness.
This
is the kind of thing you can experience on Oahu's famous North Shore. Before you
pack your bags, you should prepare yourself, here are some tips:
Here's my first
tip.
If you are humble and friendly, most surfers on the North Shore tend to
be friendly but as anywhere, the locals are protective of their spots.
North
Shore surfers include an eclectic mixture of locals and traveling Americans, Australians,
Brazilians and Japanese. Crowds at various breaks have "collective"
personalities ranging from ultra-territorial and nasty to welcoming and kind.
An
example of a territorial break would be Velzyland where people can be extremely
rude. On the other hand a break that has a mellow and helpful crowd would be Chun's
reef. Both types of crowds can pose no problems if one shows courtesy.
There
are many components of courtesy which are probably identical to the unwritten
laws of your home surfing beaches and reefs. One way to be courteous is to sport
a good attitude. Be friendly and respectful, smile, and don't be afraid to talk
to other surfers in the water.
Your attitude will be reflected back to you
and your surfing experience will be greatly enhanced. You will find that even
though you are an outsider the locals will introduce you to other surfers and
you might even get a set wave or two!
Another
component of courtesy, and my second tip is to share the waves.
In other words
never drop in and don't be a wave hog!
The surfer closest to the "peak"
or "bowl" always has priority. If you find that you have dropped in
by mistake, quickly kick out, and apologize for your mistake.
This will show
that you have recognized your error and as a result diffuse any potential conflict.
If you surf a longboard remember that even though you can always be the surfer
in the priority position (due to the ease of paddling a longboard) this does not
give you the right to catch all the waves. Being a wave hog will only anger the
surfers around you may attract some verbal abuse.
Lastly,
to be courteous in the water you must learn how not to get into another surfers
way. In other words do not block the line of another surfer. If you see a surfer
going down the line and it is obvious that the surfer will make the section do
not paddle over the shoulder. You will block the surfer and he will be unable
to complete his ride.
In order to keep out of the line of the oncoming surfer
paddle into the breaking section of the wave (or bowl). This may seem suicidal
on a large day but by taking the beating instead of getting in the way you will
gain respect of other surfers.
My
next group of tips will help you enjoy yourself safely on your next North Shore
trip by being aware of waves and weather conditions.
The waves on the North
Shore are usually manageable and can be great fun but surf conditions can go from
fun to out of control in a matter of minutes. This is why it is important to know
your surfing capabilities and limits and have a good idea of what the surf is
going to do before you go out.
How do you do this?
Firstly,
have an accurate appraisal of your surfing abilities.
The saying "If in
doubt don't go out" rings true here.
North Shore lifeguards are among
the busiest in the world saving people who go out in conditions that surpass their
abilities as surfers.
I have made the mistake of surfing in conditions over my skill level and despite my 20 years of surfing experience I was sucked out to sea at Haleiwa. No matter how hard I tried I could not paddle back into shore. I panicked and had to be assisted in by lifeguards on jet skis. Not only was experience terrifying but I was humiliated by the hundreds of onlookers and circling helicopters who had gathered to watch my ordeal!
Before going out at a spot you never surfed before, ask a lifeguard or local surfer about things to watch out for. Watch other surfers paddle out, find out about currents and shallow or exposed reef, check the tide conditions and don't go out if you are not ready for it.
Secondly,
use todays high-tech surf forecasts to judge the conditions.
In our modern
age we are fortunate to have accurate surf forecasts from Hawaii's National Weather
Service and other agencies. If you want to surf larger waves (Hawaiian 6-8 feet)
I would strongly suggest that you check the forecasts before attempting to go
out. Why? The waves can be a glassy 4 feet, well within most people's abilities,
and suddenly jump 15 to 20 feet within a period of 20 minutes in extreme cases.
You could be caught with a board to small or break your leash, leaving you unable
to paddle or swim to shore. If no lifeguards are around you may be in trouble.
Use surf forecasts to predict swell patterns. Surf the swell on the downswing
after its peak. In this way you will usually avoid nasty surprises and be more
in control of the conditions.
Here are a few numbers and Internet addresses to access accurate surf and weather forecasts
Hawaii
state surf report: (808) 973-4383
Hawaii wind and weather report: (808) 973-4381
Surfline: http://www.swell.com/sw/surflinehome
Pat Caldwell Surf Forecast: http://www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl/Products/SRF.html#part2
Lastly, before you surf, sit down on the beach and observe the conditions.
Don't be afraid to ask advice from lifeguards. Where is the channel? What direction
is the swell? Where is the swell focusing? How are the winds affecting the waves?
Are there any dangerous currents? Not only will these obsevations help your surf
session to be safe but by watching and understanding the conditions you will be
more tuned in to the waves and therefore be able to be in the right place at the
right time to get the best waves
If you have not yet come to the North Shore you are missing out on the experience of a lifetime. Hawaii is a place with rolling green mountains, crystal clear water, beautiful people and incredible waves. If you follow these simple tips your first North Shore experience can be filled with thumping barrels and endless double-overhead walls. It will be as if you have entered Nirvana, if not just for a short time. So what are you waiting for?
Come
to Hawaii!