Surfing
Maui
Surfing
Maui
by Jairus Cannon
Growing up and surfing on Maui helped me become diversified
in my surfing. The conditions are always changing and it is usually very windy,
so going to little protected bays and sand bars is an ongoing mission for surfers
on Maui.
Here is a short story about a day of surfing on Maui:
The shape of the Valley Isle amplifies the trade winds that blast the Maui coastline throughout the year. Every once in a while there will be a week or so of wind and storm surf that makes waves in usually wave-less spots. This is a story of one of those days.
A couple of the adventurous Maui Boys and I, decided to check out a secret sand
bar that never breaks.
We loaded the boards and munchies and were off on our
mission. Wind and rain on the horizon, typical Maui weather.
The winds were
blasting unusually strong, but we kept our plans to find a spot that was surfable.
While rambling on the back roads we could see ugly storm surf slamming the jagged,
lava shoreline. But we didn't care, it was an adventure.
When we got to our spot and after procrastinating forever, we finally started down towards our possible beach break. The only trail was from the few fishermen who journey to the coast this way very rarely.
We were blessed that day; there were sick beach break waves and even a clear day. The wind was strong, and the waves were killable, with no one out. Every other wave was a clean face that offered a good air section or slam section. Everyone was ripping.
After our first session we ended up getting poured on by a quick flurry of rain, and after about twenty minutes of hiding under coconut trees and behind big rocks the rain stopped and so did the wind. Right then we knew that the waves would be tubing and as we looked at the ocean we saw a perfect A-frame wedge tube- just sick. We were so psyched we all started hooting and yelling, grabbed our boards and paddled out as fast as we could, knowing the wind could ruin it at any moment.
It was a super fun day. We really love the Maui weather. You never know what you might score. That was just one short story. I hope you are interested in reading more. Let me know and I will write other fun stories.
PS: Excuse the quality of the photos, our girlfriends were the photographers.
Aloha,
Jairus
Cannon
Jairus
Cannon
H a w a i i
Email: jairus@shaka.com